If you only have one day in Mombasa…
Feb 17th, 2009 Posted in Trip Ideas, Uncategorized | 2 Comments »So I had a week-long conference in Mombasa, Kenya, which was simultaneously wonderful (It’s warm! even at night!) and tortuous (We were inside all day. I felt like I was back in 5th grade, staring out of the classroom window, praying for the teacher to call recess). Suspecting that I would regret it if I didn’t take some “me” time at the end of the trip, I gave myself Saturday to frolick.
Now, it may be tempting to do nothing but vegetate on the beach with a Tusker while in paradise. Frankly, some fellow conference goers did just that, and part of me certainly understood the desire. That said, for those of us who like to be able to differentiate one beach town from the next, here are some must-dos if you only have a day in Mombasa:
1. Bombolulu Workshops and Cultural Center – This compound is a rehabilitation center that provides employment, education, housing, etc. for adults who are blind or physically disabled and who would otherwise have virtually no chance of employment in Kenya. It looks a bit dilapidated, and you certainly feel pressure to buy at least one artisanal product, but luckily, it will be easy to give in as the crafts are quite good. There are also a few cheesy aspects of it, but if you make it clear that you’d really just rather hang out and chat with the artisans rather than go through the official tour, which includes a ”cultural show” – a very awkward dance lesson where you are forced to watch elderly European men try to keep up with the 20-something Kenyan counterparts dressed as Masaai warriors – then it can be an educational and moving time. As my friend Jorge says, you walk away feeling like you’ve participated in “ethical tourism.”
2. Old Town - I love markets. Even touristy ones. The colors, the noises, the crowds. As long as I have a zipper on my purse, I’m as happy as a clam. Old Town market is much less rowdy than your average scene, as it’s mixed in with a residential area. It is quite a labyrinth of dusty, winding streets lined with meticulously carved wooden doors that open into homes and shops. This, of course, makes for great photos if you’re discreet about it. An added bonus for Americans visiting Kenya is the “Obama Price” being offered by every vendor that learns of your citizenship. Instead of the terse and occasional combatitive responses I got for claiming the US of A as my own for the past 8 years, I was greeted with an outpouring of excitement and congratulations. For once, my Canadian co-workers were jealous! Ha! Even more exciting, you can get kangas and other wares with Obama plastered all over it. I am optimistic that this will be a fun keepsake to display when I’m old and recounting all of my travel stories to anyone who will listen.
3. Fort Jesus - If you like history, then you should go to Fort Jesus. If you like specatcular views of water and nature, you should go to Fort Jesus. If you like lots of attention from men, you should go to Fort Jesus (sorry guys, the above statement does apply to you…as far as I can tell). For just a small upkeep fee, you can go see this Portuguese built fort that was captured by the Turks, turned into a slave fort, then a prison, then eventually a museum. If history is the reason for your story, investing in a guide isn’t a bad idea, but you should make sure to get an official one. That said, remember, official does not mean you can’t bargain on the tour price. You’ll just get more bang for your buck. If you’re there for the ambience, save the cash and just roam around. Once you’ve actually gotten into the fort, no one really bothers you so it is quite easy to linger, soak in the views, and snap photos like a paparazzo.
4. Juma Tea Shop - This shop is actually in Old Town, but it deserved its own comment. We stumbled upon the tea shop when walking from Fort Jesus to the market. It specializes in Somali and Kenyan tea and coffee. They also make a mean potato puff and samosa. The environment is extremely relaxed (maybe too relaxed for this admittedly impatient American). The best part, however, is hands down the homemade tea concoctions. The spices are added to tea leaves and coffee on the spot, which adds a freshness to the flavor in a way I’ve never tasted before. I bought enough tea to brew for a year. It takes time for them to prepare it, but it is well worth the wait.
Of course, as my beach bumming colleagues would recommend, don’t forget to get some time in for lounging oceanside with that Tusker. If you really want the sea experience, you can even go scuba diving with sharks. As for me, I’ll take the Tusker.


